DAY 4
After a restful day, we set out early to visit some of
the “white villages” scattered throughout Andalucía and Cadiz Province. These bright white villages stand out in
stark contrast to the surrounding rocky mountainsides in the bright sunlight
and each have their own unique histories and characteristics. They are reached only by very windy, steep roads,
which did not start the day out well for Deb and Jenny who were riding in the
back seat.
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Our faithful vehicle, an Opal |
First stop, Ronda – a village that dates back to
medieval times. The city was originally
cut off from other cities by a cavernous ravine or Gorge until a bridge (Arab
Bridge) was constructed to access the city. This bridge was rebuilt several
times over the centuries because of the damage done by the flooding of the
river each year. Finally, in the 17th
century, a new larger bridge (Puente Nuevo) was built (after several unsuccessful attempts)
and this bridge, for which the town is known, stands today to link the old city
with the new, fastest growing city in the area.
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Ronda town centre |
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Arab Bridge |
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View from the bridge |
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Puente Nuevo |
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Ronda views |
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Street in Old Ronda |
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Belltower of Santa Maria de Mayor |
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Orange tree in the plaza |
Ronda also has a Plaza del Toros, which still has
bullfights each year. Pedro Romero, the
most famous Spanish bullfighter, was born in Ronda. He is responsible for
forever changing the method of bull fighting from horseback to standing in the ring with the bull.
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Plaza del Toros |
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3 Amigos |
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Statue of Pedro Romero
After
touring the old city and having lunch at an outdoor tapas restaurant in town centre, we headed for the next village.
The
drive took us through acres and acres of groves of cork trees, which we had
never seen before. The cork is made from
the bark that is pealed off of the trunk of the tree, leaving bare wood which
eventually grows new cork-bark.
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The
next white village - Grazalema is reported to be the “whitest” of all the white
villages, so as we approached the town from afar we attempted to see if we
thought this was true..... it kinda looked the same as all the other villages,
but if they say it is whiter, who are we to argue?
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View approaching Grazalema |
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Street in Grazalema |
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House after house displayed beautiful flowers. |
After strolling through this much smaller
village, it was time for a late afternoon snack, then on to the next
village. It was interesting that this
small village had a public pool in which we could have taken a dip, but we
decided not to on this visit.
As
it was late in the day and we were far from our base, we decided to see one
more village named Zahara. After asking
directions from our Spanish-only speaking waiter, we set out on what was to be
a 30 min. drive. What the waiter failed
to tell us (or possibly got lost in translation) was that the bridge on the
most direct route was out, and we had to take an alternative route which
eventually got us there, but took some map reading and navigating skills.
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Approach to Zahara
Zahara
sits at the base of a peak that has a castillo (Moorish castle) overlooking and
guarding the access to the town. Our
first thought was that we would like to climb to the top of the peak to check
out the castle. We spotted steps around
the back of the town that appeared to go up to the top and eventually found
where they began, but they were very overgrown.
Yet we pressed on (did I mention that everything in this area is uphill)
and climbed through brush on steep steps only to come to a dead end.... and we climbed back down. We walked through the sleepy little village
and eventually discovered the steps to the castle at the OTHER end of
town. A quick vote determined that we
could really do without seeing the fortress.
We trekked back through the village and found a small shop that had
homemade Macarena cookies (yes, this area is where the dance is from). We could see a TV on in the back room of the
shop where someone was watching a video of a bullfight, so we had to ring the
bell twice to get someone to come and sell us our cookies. The cookies provided the energy needed to get
back to the car.
Beautiful views of the reservoir adjacent to Zahara
Church in Zahara
Finally,
after a few wrong turns (which were vigorously debated by the 2 navigators-Jeff
and Jenny) we made our way back down the mountain and stopped in the village of
Benahavis for dinner. We sat outside on
the main street and watched the end of the Brazil soccer (OK, futbol here) while
eating our pizza. After topping off the
tank with ice cream (helado), we drove the rest of the way home, arriving at a
record-setting early time of 11:00. We
retired at the unheard-of time of 12:00.
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